Introduction
At last we had a monsoon ride to Courtallam (Kutralam) off Tenkasi to take a bath under the so-called “spa of South India” there. It was warm in the water, the herbal oil booths were entertaining and the mountains were theatrical following each downpour.
How does the only variable that made or broke the day? Crowds. This is precisely how weekday vs weekend experience was to us and on-ground suggestions on how to enjoy the falls without having to battle through endless queues.
Getting There and Best Time
- Where: Tenkasi, Tamil Nadu. The primary group (Main/Peraruvi, Five Falls/Aintharuvi, Old Courtallam, Small Falls/Chitraruvi) is located 5-8 km south of the town of Tenkasi.
- When to visit: Courtallam season normally coincides with the southwest monsoon ( June-September) and may even spill over into October/November when there is good flow.
- Best times: Early morning (6:00-8:30 AM) when the flow is not so strong and the water lines are fresher, it is also easier to find a parking space. Evenings after 5:30 PM may be very pretty, but more active.
- Openings: Bathing may be halted during very high flow or thunderstorms. Enquire of your host or local police Picket before you go.
Quick Planner: Distance, Time and Typical Costs
| Tenkasi Jn → Main Falls | 6–7 km, 15–25 min | Autos ₹120–200; plenty of buses |
| Tirunelveli → Courtallam | 60–70 km, 1.5–2 hrs | Good roads; weekend traffic near falls |
| Trivandrum → Courtallam | 110–130 km, 3–4 hrs | Scenic via Thenmala ghats |
| Parking (near Main/Five Falls) | ₹20–60 | Peak weekends overflow into side lanes |
| Entry fee | Mostly free | Small eco/forest checks on some trails |
| Herbal oils/soap near stalls | ₹30–150 | Buy sealed; patch‑test if sensitive |
| Cloak/lockers & changing rooms | ₹20–60 | Private operators; quality varies |
| Local meals (veg “meals”/tiffin) | ₹120–250 | Try parotta, kothu, or veg meals |
The Falls at a Glance (Which Ones, What to Expect)
| Fall | Vibe | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Main Falls (Peraruvi) | Classic, powerful sheet of water with bathing rails | Big crowds on weekends; men/women sections; police presence |
| Five Falls (Aintharuvi) | Multiple segmented streams—great photos | Gets jammed fastest; separate enclosures |
| Old Courtallam (Pazhaya) | Gentler, family‑friendly | Often our pick when Five/Main are packed |
| Small Falls (Chitraruvi) | Short drop, good for a quick splash | Close to Main; fills up mid‑morning |
| Tiger Falls (Puli Aruvi) | Short, broad cascade | Quieter early; shallow pools |
| Honey Falls (Thenaruvi) | Foresty trek, seasonal access | Access controlled; closes in heavy rain |
| Shenbaga Devi trail | Temple + stream crossings | Check forest timings; no plastic, leeches in peak monsoon |
1‑Day Crowd‑Smart Plan (Relaxed but Complete)
- 6:30 AM: Visit Five Falls first (or Old Courtallam in case it has been all night wet). Spend 30-45 minutes.
- 7:45 AM: Move to Main Falls. Morning flow was firm and bearable; ten or fifteen minutes beneath the sheet is sufficient.
- 9:00 AM: Breakfast in town (idli, dosa, pongal, or parotta).
- 10:30-12:00 PM: In case the flows are safe, go to Tiger Falls or Small Falls to have a second session which is more calm.
- Lunch + Rest: Return to your accommodation; nap.
- 4-30 to 6.00 PM: Scenic walk over hills and streams around Old Courtallam; light snacks; never bathe just before dusk.
- And on a weekend: Squeeze the morning (arrive by 6:15-6:30 AM), and it may be necessary to avoid the worst enclosure in case lines increase.
Food, Transport and Practical Tips
- Food: bath; then we wanted hot veg meals, and lemon soda; plenty of small hotels on the access roads. To be hygienic, choose spots that have a local following.
- Transport: Cars are all around; bargain. In case of self-driving during the weekends, park at one place and walk to other nearby falls in order to avoid congestions.
- What to pack: Light towel, change of clothes, sandals with good grip on the sole, phone waterproofed pouch, small trash bag.
- Safety: Slippery rocks, beat guard whistles. Keep wallets/phones fastened up and in front pockets or in non-bather.
- Monsoon alert: Rains come in a hurry. Should the water become muddy or spikes of flow start all at once, go out and awaiting instructions.
Do’s and Don’ts for First‑Timers
| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Arrive by 6:30–7:00 AM for Main/Five Falls | Expect a peaceful bath at 10–11 AM on weekends |
| Carry a change and use dry bags | Leave valuables unattended on rocks |
| Choose Old Courtallam when the big two are jammed | Force your way to the rail—wait your turn |
| Check forest status before Honey Falls/Shenbaga | Attempt forest trails in heavy rain or with slippers |
| Buy sealed oils/soaps if you try them | Rub random mixes from open tubs on sensitive skin |
Conclusion
Courtallam is the place to be visited when the hills are green and the falls in full blast,–but it is two very different places on different days. During working days, we could shower without haste and settle to have photographs.
Weekends were not an exception, as we used to begin it at dawn, make Old Courtallam the real soak, and look at the big falls in a passing glance. Breath in packs, get out early and laugh at it–the water actually cleanses the dust out of the road per week.
