Introduction
We have gone to Wayanad in the rains too often, and here is the simple fact that it is beautiful, green, and damp, wet, foggy and unpredictable. Streams are where footpaths used to be, leeches are at lower forest trails and there are a few must-dos closing down heavy-rain days.
When you take flexible schedules and waterproof garments, it is one of the most atmospheric monsoon journeys in India. Here is what exactly will be changed, what we will not do, and how we will arrange our days in order to come back with wonderful memories (and having our phones not wet).
Getting There and Best Time
- Base towns: Vythiri, Sultan Bathery, Meppadi, Base towns: Kalpetta and Mananthavady. We tend to spend our time in Vythiri/Meppadi to see tea-estates.
How to reach:
- Bengaluru – Wayanad (through Mysuru-Gundlupet-Bathery or through HD Kote-Bavali-Mananthavady): 6.5-9 hrs according to route, rain and the ghats traffic. Close downs during the night occur in forest areas; commence early.
- Kozhikode (Calicut) – Vythiri/Kalpetta through Thamarassery Ghat: 2-3.5 hrs; landslides may occur on heavy rain days.
- Mysuru – Wayanad: 3.5-5.5 hrs depending on the time of the forest gate and rains.
When to go:
- Peak Southwest monsoon: June-September. Showers and certain closures should be expected often.
- Shoulder: pleasant: late September-October (lush, less closures).
- Northeast Monsoon: There are additional bursts that may occur during some years in October-November.
Distance, Time and Typical Costs
| Bengaluru → Wayanad fuel + tolls (round trip) | ₹3,200–4,600 (car) | Depends on route and vehicle |
| Airport taxi (Calicut → Vythiri one way) | ₹2,600–3,800 | Confirm hill charges/night charges |
| Mid‑range homestay/cottage (per night) | ₹2,200–4,000 | Look for covered sit‑outs + backup power |
| Jeep to viewpoints/estate tracks | ₹1,200–2,000 per jeep | Prices/weather‑dependent |
| Entry: waterfalls (Soochipara/Meenmutty) | ₹40–200 | May shut during high flow |
| Safari (Muthanga/Tholpetty) | ₹300–800 pp + jeep | Cancellations in heavy rain possible |
| Leech socks/salt | ₹150–300 / ₹20 | Useful around Meppadi trails |
What Actually Happens in Monsoon (Open/Closed/Changed)
| Waterfalls (Soochipara, Meenmutty, Kanthanpara) | Roaring flows; ticket counters may stop entry if levels are dangerous | Often open in light rain, closed during downpours; slippery steps—carry grip shoes |
| Chembra Peak trek | Frequently paused/limited slots | We found it closed after two days of heavy rain; reopened once rainfall eased |
| Edakkal Caves | Opens/pauses based on lightning/rockfall risk | Short closures during storms; check morning status |
| Banasura Sagar dam | Walkway sometimes shut; boating pauses | Viewpoints open; clouds add drama; boating closed in rough weather |
| Kuruva/Kuruvadweep island | Usually closed in peak monsoon due to river level | Expect “closed” boards June–Sept most years |
| Muthanga/Tholpetty safari | Runs with reduced sightings; muddy tracks | We got a slot but saw fewer animals; lovely misty forest though |
| Tea‑estate drives (Vythiri/Meppadi) | Open; roads slick but scenic | Our go‑to on rainy days—views even with low clouds |
| Road conditions (ghats) | Occasional landslides/diversions | One morning delay at Thamarassery; road cleared by noon |
| Power/internet | Short outages in storms | Our homestay had backup; mobile data dipped during downpours |
Pro tip: Call or WhatsApp your host at 7:30–8:00 AM for the day’s status; they usually have the most current info from forest and dam offices.
2‑Day Rain‑Smart Itinerary (Relaxed but Complete)
Day 1: Water + Tea + Covered Views
- Get in late morning; register and equip oneself (poncho, grip shoes, dry bag).
- Lunch in Kalpetta/Vythiri.
- Noon: Banasura Sagar perspectives (no boating on windy days).
- 4:00 PM: Tea-estate loop near Meppadi; brief strolls between showering.
- 6:00 PM: Cafe break of hot pazham pori (banana fritters) and chai.
- Evening: Playing board games at homestay; hearing rain on the roof.
Day 2: Waterfalls if open + Forest window
- 7-10.30 AM: In case of gate permission, do Soochipara first (less people in rain). Use leech socks on the trail.
- Late morning: Coffee roastery tour of Kalpetta (great rain shelter).
- 3:00-6:00 PM: Safari slot at Tholpetty/Muthanga (when there is), otherwise a slow drive on village roads to take photos of paddy-fields in the mist.
- Dinner: Kerala meal up with hot rasam– best during monsoon.
Do’s and Don’ts for First‑Timers
| Check attraction status each morning with your host or official numbers | Assume all treks/boating are open every day |
| Wear leech socks or tuck pants into socks on forest trails | Try to flick leeches off dry—use salt or running water calmly |
| Keep flexible plans with 2–3 indoor backups | Book a packed hour‑by‑hour schedule you can’t change |
| Drive slowly on ghats; expect fallen branches after storms | Park under large trees during high wind and rain |
| Carry cash for rural check‑posts and small stalls | Count on network‑based payments everywhere |
Conclusion
Wayanad during the monsoon is not a checklist adventure–a state of mind. Accompanying this are rain breaks, slow rides over cloud-gobbled tea hills, tumultuous falls, and silent evenings with a tin roof.
When the sky opens, plan some flexible days, book some stay with backup power and covered sit-outs, and replace long walks with brief forest walks and cafes. Having this in mind the mist, the moss, the green you will never see again in any other season are the magic of the monsoon.
